Home improvement

How to Install Carpet

Installing your wall-to-wall carpet can seem like a daunting task, but with the right tools and some perseverance, you can certainly install the carpet yourself. If you already have carpet, be prepared to remove it before moving on. Carpet laying can be tough on your knees and back, and you need to be prepared to spend some time getting the job done. However, with a little perseverance, you will find yourself the owner of a new wall-to-wall carpet. Find out more about the best carpet cleaners. In the Sydney metro regions, we are one of the most trusted Australian companies providing carpet cleaning, carpet restoration, carpet stretching, and many other related services. We run our business by combining good work with excellent customer service.

1. Vacuum and mop the floor:-

Now is the time to make sure the floor under the carpet is clean. Vacuum or sweep up trash in this area, and then wipe it with a mop. Let it dry for at least an hour before continuing as you don’t want water under the carpet. 

  • If you’re putting carpet on a hardwood floor where you didn’t need to remove the carpet, you just need to take this step.

2. Measure the length and width of your room:- 

To buy enough upholstery and carpet, you need to know the area of your room. Start by measuring your room along the longest side and write down the number. Do the same in the other direction and write down this number. 

  • For example, your room might be 13 by 10 feet
  • If your room isn’t perfectly rectangular, divide it into rectangles and measure the length and width of each. Alternatively, make the room roughly rectangular and add a little more to your estimate. For example, if one wall has a small part that sticks out, measure 2 walls and then increase your estimate by 1 foot for that wall.

3. Multiply the length by the width to get square meters:-

To get the area of ​​a rectangle, you multiply the length by the width. You do the same with your room dimensions and that gives you the square footage of the room. 

  • For example, if your room is 13 by 10 feet you multiply 13 by 10 to get 130 square feet 

4. Add 10-20% to your estimate:-

You will make mistakes when laying carpet. Also, you may have trouble getting the cut pieces to fit in the areas you left to cover after the main pieces are omitted. It’s always better to have more than you need than to run back to the store because you’ve run out of stuffing or carpet. 

5. Buy carpet and padding that fits your space:-

When purchasing these accessories, they will be specified in square feet or meters. So all you have to do is compare the square footage or square footage you find with what’s available in the store.

6. Determine how much tape you will need:-

If you are using existing duct tape, just measure what you removed because it was damaged. If you are not using an existing potholder, simply multiply your length and width measurements by 2 plus 10%. The tack strip will have to go around the entire border of the room.

  • When choosing bartack strips, choose the widest you can find. 

7. Nail the backtrack strips in place if necessary:-

Position the tack strips about 0.25–0.5 inches from the wall in a straight line. Make sure the buttons are pointing towards the wall and not towards the centre of the room. Use 2 nails for each strip, nailing it to the wood underneath. Some tack strips come with nails already installed and you just hammer them in. 

  • If you need to cut the strip to the right size, cut it with a hacksaw. 
  • If the concrete is soft enough, you can simply push it in the same way. If not, drill holes for the nails using the same size concrete drill and then drive in aluminium nails.
  • You’ll also need straps to secure around things like floor vents.

8. Layout the padding on the floor:- 

Roll out the stuffing, starting on one side of the room and moving to the other. When you get to the other wall, cut it off with your knife, making sure you have enough on both ends. Trim it only on the inside of the bartack strip. Roll out the next set of stuffing next to the first. 

  • Make sure you line up the seams so that there are no hills or depressions on the floor.

9. Secure the packing with staples:- 

Walk across the floor and press the staples into place every 2 feet or so. Also, be sure to staple the pad along the inside edge of the duct tape so that it adheres to the strip. 

  • In the case of concrete, you need to apply a gasket adhesive under the gasket instead. In this case, simply lift one side at a time to spread the adhesive evenly.

10. Glue the seams together:-

After you have rolled and cut the entire floor, cover each seam with a long piece of duct tape. You may need to use more than one strip, but duct tape will help hold the seams together. Smooth it out with your hands so it doesn’t rise. 

11. Leave carpet in your home for 24 hours:- 

This is the time it takes to adjust to the temperature and humidity in your home. This is because it can expand or contract depending on these conditions, so you must ensure that this process is complete before you put it down. 

  • You can leave it rolled up for the time being.

12. Cut the carpet to size if you don’t have space for it in the room:- 

If your room is small, you may not have enough floor space to bring the rug in and cut it. Use the measurements you made earlier for the room to cut the rug to size.

  • Be sure to leave a little extra at both ends so you don’t end up with a piece that’s too short.

13. Roll out the carpet:- 

Start in one corner of the room. Leave 7.6 to 10.2 cm of excess material on each side of the carpet against the wall. Unroll the carpet roll, covering the floor and pinning the strips as you do. Align the edges of the carpet as needed to make seams and cover the entire floor. 

  • Check the texture of the carpet to make sure it is going in the direction you want.

14. Place joint tape under the seams:- 

When you get to the seam, put the tape on the floor. The adhesive side should be facing up. Place the carpet seam over the tape, making sure both edges are closed. 

  • If possible, try to place the seams in inconspicuous areas with low traffic.

15. Heat the tape with a seaming iron:-

Set the seaming iron. Raise the carpet on both sides so you can run the seaming iron under the carpet and over the tape. Leave it on for 8-10 seconds until the glue melts, then slide it down. Press down on the part of the seam that you just heated so that the carpet adheres to the tape. 

16. Seal the seam with a carpet roller:- 

Run your thumbs along the very centre of the seam to make sure it is in place. Then go over it several times with a carpet roller, moving it back and forth along the seam. Do this while heating each section, not at the very end. 

  • A carpet roller is a small roller that looks a bit like a paint roller.
  • After stitching, wait 20 minutes before pinning and stretching.
  • Continue lowering the seam in this way until it is stuck in place.

17. Attach the carpet to the wall with knee scissors:-

Place the serrated edge of the knee knife on the carpet against the wall in the corner. Move it about 7.6 cm away from the wall. Hit the flat vertical part protruding at the other end with your knee with some force. When you hit it, it attaches the carpet to the strip. Move along the wall, kicking your knee every 0.30 m or so. 

  • You can use knee pads for this process!
  • You will have carpet sticking out over the trim.
  • The knee kicker is a one-piece metal instrument about 1.5 inches long with prongs that will hook into the carpet at one end and a heavily stuffed butt at the other. He stretches the carpet over the potholder. The buttons grip the carpet and hold it securely in place.

18. Stretch the rug across the room and pin it to the other side:- 

With maximum force, pull the carpet over the entire room so that it is taut. Use the kicker to attach it to the wall. 

  • Make sure there are no lumps on the carpet.
  • You can use a carpet stretcher for this, which is a good idea if you have a large room. To use one, first, attach the flat end to the wall you attached to and then place the flat end on the floor. 

19. Secure the rest of the room with a knee brace:- 

Attach a knee brace to the other edges of the room, pulling the carpet as tight as you can as you move around the room. Remember, you will have extra carpet on each side that you can trim in a minute. 

20. Run the carpet clipper along the edge:- 

The carpet tool has a flat metal slider on the bottom, a handle on the top, and a blade on one edge. Press the tool against the carpet and press the sharp side against the baseboard. Push it along the wall as hard as you would. 

  • A paper cutter can be used for this purpose, but it must have a new, sharp blade. Run it under the baseboard to cut through the carpet. If it starts to dull, replace the blade.
  • Also, use a box cutter to cut holes for floor vents.

21. Make sure you cut through the carpet cleanly before removing the strip:-

Look at the edge of the cut strip. Make sure the strip does not connect to the main carpet, then pull it up and away from the carpet. 

  • If you pull the strip without checking it, you can pull out the fibres that cause the run from the carpet.

22. Return all removed hardware:- 

If you removed the doors, put them back in place. Put the door stops back. If you took the floor vents, screw them back on. Put your furniture and things back in place and you’re done!

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